UPDATED APRIL 2008
SECTIONS
Introduction
Finding your measurements
A note about testosterone and clothing size
Tips on sizing and fit
Shopping in the youth/boy's department
Shirts
Jeans and casual pants
Work gear
Suits and formal wear
Ties
Socks
Belts
Specialty/custom stores for shorter men
Introduction
It can be a challenge to find clothing for guys who are shorter or who have
a smaller build. If you happen to live in an area that serves populations of
shorter men (this is not uncommon in large cities), your choices might be plentiful.
But if not, you might need to do some extra research and/or order clothing through
mail order or the internet.
This section includes contact information for companies that specialize in clothing for shorter men, as well as hints for finding smaller sizes in popular chain department stores, clothing stores, and internet sites.
Finding your measurements
Most men's clothing (unlike women's) tends to be sized according to your physical
measurements, including waist size and inseam length for pants or chest size,
sleeve length, and neck size for shirts.
You can have your measurements taken at a menswear store (this is especially recommended when you are shopping for a suit), or you can measure yourself at home with a cloth tape measure and the help of a friend.
Take your measurements while undressed or in lightweight clothing. For best results, have a friend take the measurements. Stand up straight when measuring, and keep the tape measure snug but not tight. For clothing sold in the U.S., measurements should be taken in inches.
Sleeve length measurement: Relax your arm, and place your hand on your hip with your elbow at a 90-degree angle. Start at the middle of the back of your neck, measure over your shoulder and elbow, and down your arm to your wrist bone. Or, take a shirt that fits you very well, fold at the elbow to 90 degrees, and measure from the middle back of the collar to the cuff.
Neck measurement: Measure just above the base of the neck, placing two fingers between your neck and the tape measure. Or, take a shirt that fits your neck very well and measure from the center of the button to the far end of the buttonhole. Neck measurements are recorded in half-inch increments; if you are between measurements, round up to the nearest half-inch (example: of your neck measures 16.25", round up to 16.5"). Remember that when you are wearing a dress shirt, you should always be able to slip an index finger comfortably into your collar when the shirt is buttoned all the way to the top. This ensures that the collar will not be too tight.
Chest measurement: Measure around your chest just under your arms, around the fullest part of your chest and shoulder blades. If you have not had chest surgery and are binding, take your chest measurement while wearing the binder you would normally wear, and then measure around the fullest part of the chest.
Waist measurement: Measure around where you normally wear the waist of your pants, keeping the tape measure a bit loose or putting one finger between your body and the tape measure. For suit pants, the waist is measured higher up than you would measure for a pair or jeans or chinos, as suit pants are to be worn higher. See the chapter "Suits and Ties for the Beginner" on this web site for more information on suit measurements and sizing.
Inseam measurement: Measure from your crotch to your ankle, or to the place on your leg or foot that you want your pants to rest while you are standing. It helps to wear shoes for this measurement, so you can get an idea of where you want the pants to fall over your shoes. You can also take a pair of good fitting pants, and measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the pants.
A note about testosterone and clothing size
If you are in the beginning stages of testosterone therapy, remember that your body shape can change
pretty dramatically during the first year or so, due to fat redistribution and
increased muscle mass. Your shoulders and neck might get wider, your hips and
butt narrower, and your belly bigger.
Even though it might be tempting for the newly transitioning man to rush out and buy a new wardrobe, it may not be wise to invest a great deal of money in clothing that might not fit in a few months. You may want to buy only a few new items as you need them, or look into used clothing as your body transitions.
If you know other trans men in your area or through internet communities, you could try "handing down" or exchanging clothing, as many trans men go through a few size changes during transition.
Sizing in pants
Measurements on men's pants are usually listed with the waist measurement first,
followed by the inseam measurement. So a 30x32 jean would have a 30-inch waist
and a 32-inch inseam.
The "rise" on a pair of pants or jeans refers to the distance between the crotch and the waist. For shorter men, the rise of standard cut pants is often too long, causing the crotch to hang too low, or causing the wearer to have to pull the pants up too high on his waistline. Pants that are made especially for short men tend to have a shorter rise that is in proportion to the rest of the measurements. The rise will vary among different brands and styles, so be sure to try on pants to make sure they look good on your particular body shape.
Some of the "low rise" jeans styles available at stores that carry shorter inseams (see jeans listings below) might be worth a try to see if the shorter rise flatters your body type. What is a very "low rise" on a taller guy might look perfect on a shorter guy (if he can find a short enough inseam or have the pants hemmed).
Sizing in shirts
Most men's shirts that are simply labeled "small" (but don't necessarily
have specific measurements listed on the package or label) usually are around
the ballpark of a 14-14.5 inch collar, a 34-36 inch chest, and a "regular"
sleeve length of 32-33 inches. "Short" sleeve lengths of 30-31 are
sometimes available. Of course, the exact measurements of a men's size "small"
will vary among manufacturers-- you might find that some brands of small are
larger or cut differently than others.
Men's dress shirts will be typically be sized with specific measurements for neck circumference and sleeve length, with the neck measurement listed first. The chest/waist size ratio of most dress shirts is determined by the manufacturer to be in proportion to the neck size. This can be a challenge in fitting for guys who are short and heavy. Dress shirts can be found in "regular" fit, as well as "athletic" or "trim" fit (with a slight taper toward the waist, for those with broader shoulders and a thin waistline) and "full cut" for those who need a little more room around the middle.
Getting the right fit
Keep in mind that some stores may have their own special fit charts and size
tips. This is particularly good to check when shopping online or through catalogs.
It's always a good idea to consult sizing charts, ask questions if you are unsure,
and find out the return policy in case something doesn't fit as you hoped.
Clothes are designed with different cuts and styles that flatter some body types and not others-- just because a shirt or pair of pants is made with your measurements doesn't mean it is going to look good on you! Try clothes on to be sure. This is especially true if you are trying to find clothes to take emphasis away from wide hips or narrow shoulders.
Finally, don't forget the option of alterations by a tailor or by someone you know with sewing skills. If you are just a little shorter than the average sized pant length available in your area, pants can be easily hemmed to the correct length. Sleeves can also be shortened, though for a good dress shirt you might want to check a short man's specialty store to obtain a better overall fit.
Finding smaller sizes
Once you have your measurements in hand, check your local yellow pages and call
around to see what stores carry clothing in your size. Don't be afraid to ask
about smaller sizes! Sometimes the shirt or pants you want are available in
a smaller size and simply need to be ordered for you.
Shopping in the youth/boy's department
Some smaller men can find clothing--especially casual items such as t-shirts,
tank tops, shorts, athletic wear, etc .-- in youth/boy's departments. A youth
size shirt in Large (14-16) or XL (18-20) might fit a small man perfectly. Also,
the sleeve length on boys' shirts tends to be shorter, which may fit better
on some.
The boy's department is also a good place to look for accessories such as socks, belts, winter gloves and hats, and baseball caps.
One word of caution: sometimes items in the boy's department are not made with the same quality and durability as men's clothing, though on the upside they are often less expensive than men's clothing. For high-quality shirts and accessories, you will be better off trying a short men's specialty store.
Shirts
The Gap ( Gap.com
)
carries shirts
in extra-small men's sizes (this includes t-shirts, button-down shirts, long-sleeve
t-shirts, sweaters, etc.). JCrew ( www.jcrew.com )
also carries extra small sizes in a number of their shirt styles, including t-shirts, polos, and some long-sleeve button downs. American Eagle Outfitters ( www.ae.com ) features extra-small sizes in t-shirts, button-downs, polos, rugbys, henleys, and hooded sweatshirts. Old Navy ( oldnavy.com
) no longer carries extra-small men's shirts, but they do carry a XXL in boy's shirts that may fit some smaller men. Individual retail stores may not stock
extra-small at all times, but a wider range of sizes is usually available online.
Some stores will special order items for you in extra small, or they may refer
you to their web site.
American Apparel ( store.americanapparel.net ) makes t-shirts, hooded sweatshirts, jackets, collared shirts, and tank tops in extra-small sizes-- some styles even come in XXS. The company also offers organic cotton clothing options for those who are looking for environmentally sustainable products.
Bluefly.com ( www.bluefly.com ) is an online clothing store that features a size-specific search engine with over 350 different brands of clothing at discounted prices (between 25%-75% off). They list extra-small sizes in casual shirts, t-shirts, and dress shirts for men. The prices can vary tremendously (from $15 to $200) depending on the brand and the discount, but you can usually find some good deals. Their search engines for jeans, pants, and belts also run in very small sizes. To shop by size, choose the type of clothing you are looking for (such as "shirts-- casual") from the "shop by category" menu.
Another online menswear store that features a search engine with smaller sizes is Hugestore.com ( www.hugestore.com ). Their search engine allows you to specify the type of shirt you are looking for by size as well as color, collar type, and fabric.
Paul Frederick MenStyle ( www.paulfredrick.com ) makes quality dress shirts in short sizes, and they periodically feature clearance items, searchable by size.
Lands End features a custom-made clothing option on their web site ( www.landsend.com ). They offer custom dress shirts in solids and patterns, dress pants, chinos, and jeans.
RustyZipper.com ( www.rustyzipper.com ) is an online vintage clothing store with a wide variety of clothing ranging from the 1940s through the 1980s. Their selection is large and varied, and they have a keyword search that can be narrowed by size, including extra small and small sizes. They often have extra small shirts and jackets in varying styles. Photos can be enlarged to view the quality of the items, and they have a fair returns policy if you are not satisfied with your purchase.
If you simply need a regular size "small" shirt, but live in an area
where stores usually only stock men's mediums, the abovementioned resources
should also prove helpful to you. In addition to the companies listed above,
there are a number of retail web sites that feature small sized shirts for most
of their inventory, including Lands End ( www.landsend.com ),
JCPenney ( www.jcpenney.com ), Banana Republic
( www.bananarepublic.com ), Eddie
Bauer ( www.eddiebauer.com ), Fossil ( Fossil.com
),
Nordstrom ( www.nordstrom.com ), and Macy's
( macys.com
), to name a few. Target ( www.target.com )
also carries small sizes in some (but not all) of their inventory, as does Kohl's
( www.kohls.com ) and Sears ( www.sears.com ).
Finally, if you are looking for durable work shirts in smaller sizes, check the "Work gear" section below for resources.
Jeans and casual pants
The Gap ( Gap.com ) and Old Navy ( oldnavy.com
) carry various styles of jeans and pants with waist sizes down to 28 inches and
inseam lengths down to 28 inches. You may need to check their web sites to get
the specific pants you want, but most of their styles are available down to
28 x 28. L.L. Bean ( www.llbean.com ) makes inseam sizes for their jeans down to 29 inches. American Eagle Outfitters ( www.ae.com ) jeans run down to 26 x 28, but they don't offer larger waist sizes paired with short inseams.
Levi's makes jeans in their popular 501, 505, and 550 styles down to 28- and
29-inch waist and 30-inch inseam in men's. They also make "student",
boys, and husky boy's sizes (in 569, 550 and 501) that are available in a range of waist sizes with shorter inseams. The "Husky" sizes are good for those guys who are short and heavyset-- they feature larger waist sizes with short inseams. Levi's are available at department stores
such as JCPenney ( www.jcpenney.com ), Sears ( www.sears.com ), and Macy's ( macys.com ), and online at numerous web sites (www.denimexpress.com
features a variety of youth and boy's sizes). Ebay ( www.ebay.com )
is also a good place to check for affordably priced Levi's in men's and student
sizes.
Eddie Bauer ( www.eddiebauer.com ) features their Classic, Relaxed, and and Loose fit jeans styles in specially-designed short sizes. Waist size can be chosen down to 30 inches, and inseam can be chosen in quarter inch increments between 20 and 29 inches. They also feature numerous styles of casual and dress pants that go down to a 27 inch inseam. Their special "short" jeans styles are available online only.
Land's End ( www.landsend.com ) makes some of their jeans and pants down to a 28- and 29-inch inseams, as well as offering custom-hemmed jeans and pants via their web site that can be made in shorter inseams.
Bluefly.com ( www.bluefly.com ) features a size-specific search engine for jeans (the site is described above in the "Shirts" section). Bluefly.com's search engine for jeans and pants allows you to search down to 26-inch waist size. To shop by waist size, choose "pants" from the "shop by category" menu.
RustyZipper.com ( www.rustyzipper.com ) is a quality online vintage clothing store with a wide variety of clothing ranging from the 1940s through the 1980s. Their selection is large and varied, and they have a keyword search that can be narrowed by size, including extra small and small sizes. They often have pants with short inseams. Photos can be enlarged to view the quality of the items, and they have a fair returns policy if you are not satisfied with your purchase.
UJeans ( www.ujeans.com ) makes custom jeans to order using information provided by the customer (they do both men's and women's jeans). You choose the style features you want in your jeans (i.e., pocket, leg, rise, fit, belt loop, etc.) and the fabric type and the color/wash. Then you provide 11 body measurements, and your jeans are made to order. Delivery takes about 5 to 7 weeks. UJeans uses natural washes and dyes to provide the coloring to their jeans so that they have a minimal impact on the environment when safely disposed. Their denim is sourced from sustainable growth cotton, and their packaging is made from reclaimed material.
True Jeans ( TrueJeans.com ) is a unique site that suggests a variety of designer jeans styles based on your specific measurements and body type. To use the site, you set up an account including your measurements (waist, hips, thigh, inseam) and body features (height, weight, belly type, seat type, thigh type), as well as your styling preferences (i.e., loose-fitting or tight, low rise or high, brands you like, etc.). The site then chooses styles and brands to match your data. Please note: many of the jeans on this site have longer inseams than optimal for short men, but True Jeans offers a hemming service for an additional $15.00. The styles featured are mostly higher-end designer jeans, but there are also sale items, and your results can be sorted by price.
See also the "Work gear" section below for other alternatives in pants.
Work gear
Sears carries a line of rugged work clothing called "WorkWear," which
is available in-store and on their web site ( www.searsworkwear.com ).
Their men's plain front work pants run as small as 28x26, and they have a full
range of small sizes in a variety of colors. They also carry long- and short-sleeved
work shirts in small sizes in a variety of colors. The Sears WorkWear
line is quite affordable, and varied in its styles and selection.
Uniforms Manufacturing Inc. ( www.unifmfg.com ) stocks a wide variety of work shirts, pants, coveralls, and jackets in numerous colors and sizes. They carry a basic Ike jacket (with or without liner) in extra small, and they carry short sized coveralls.
Aramark ( www.aramark-uniform.com ) features a "rugged workwear" department with work pants measuring down to 28x26, and heavy-duty work shirts in extra-small sizes.
The Coverall Store ( www.coverallstore.com ) is another online retailer featuring selections of work shirts, pants, and coveralls in small and short inseam sizes.
Dickies ( www.dickies.com ) brand makes their traditional work pants in sizes down to 26x28, though their matching work shirts do not come in extra-small. Dickies also makes a 28-inch (short) inseam coverall. Dickies are available in many retail outlets, though you may have to order online to find their smaller sizes.
Suits
For suits and quality dress shirts, check the listings below in the "Specialty/custom
stores for shorter men" section, as many of those retailers will provide
the best choices for men of small stature. You might also try the Men's Wearhouse
( www.menswearhouse.com ), as they
do carry some suits in short and extra-short sizes, though their stock will
vary from location to location.
If you are new to buying suits, you may also want to read the chapter on this web site called "Suits and Ties for the Beginner," which goes over the basic points of suit quality and fit, as well as providing advice on how to buy a suit.
Ties
Most men's neckties are proportioned (in both length and width) to fit average-height
or taller men. Typical sizes are between 58 and 60 inches in length and about
4 inches in width. Smaller ties can sometimes be found in the boy's department,
or at retailers who specialize in clothing for shorter men.
J. Raffiani ( www.jraffiani.com ) is an online store that specializes in neckties for men 5' 8" and under. The ties featured on the J. Raffiani site are specially tailored to be 54 inches in length, as well as slightly narrower than your average tie, to be better proportioned for shorter men. There are many styles to choose from on the site, and all ties featured are handmade from 100% Italian silk.
Socks
Most men's socks are made to fit shoe sizes 7 and up. If you wear smaller than
a men's size 7, you'll probably need to shop in the boy's department or in a
short men's specialty shop.
For white athletic socks, try Fruit of the Loom boy's crew socks (they usually come in a 6-pack), or Gold Toe brand boy's athletic socks. Both of these brands are commonly available in department stores and discount retailers.
For dress and casual socks, Gold Toe brand boy's socks ( www.goldtoe.com ) are of good quality; they can be found in many department stores or ordered directly from Gold Toe's web site. The Gap ( Gap.com ) and Old Navy ( oldnavy.com
) both carry kid's socks; the Gap's come in white, navy, and tan. Size large in
both brands will fit shoe sizes 3-4, and size extra-large fits shoe sizes 5-6.
Belts
Your belt size is usually 2 inches more than your waist size (example: if you
have a 28-inch waist, you would choose a 30-inch belt).
The Gap ( Gap.com ) stocks a classic leather
belt in both brown and black that runs down to 28 inches. Numerous other retailers stock leather
belts in 30-inch sizes on their web sites, including Banana Republic ( www.bananarepublic.com ),
JCrew ( www.jcrew.com ), and L.L. Bean ( www.llbean.com ),
to name a few. Call ahead if you are visiting one of their retail outlets to
see if they have the size and color you need in stock.
Bluefly.com ( www.bluefly.com ) has a search engine for belts that allows you to search for sizes as low as 28 inches. To shop by size, choose a "belts" from the "shop by category" menu. This site features high quality leather designer belts at extremely good discounts.
Another online retailer with a searchable option for belts is Hugestore.com ( www.hugestore.com ). Their belt search begins at 28 inches.
Belts found in the boy's department sometimes lack the same quality as a good men's belt, but boy's belts made by Levi's are of good quality, and can be found in many major department stores.
Specialty/custom stores for shorter men
This section lists short men's specialty and custom clothiers that currently
have web sites. There are a lot more short men's stores out there! For stores
near you, check your local telephone directory for men's specialty stores. Keep
in mind that "big and tall" shops sometimes also carry short sizes,
so it pays to call ahead and ask.
J. Raffiani
www.jraffiani.com
An online store that specializes in neckties for men 5' 8" and under. The ties featured on the J. Raffiani site are specially tailored to be 54 inches in length, as well as slightly narrower than your average tie, to be better proportioned for shorter men. There are many styles to choose from on the site, and all ties featured are handmade from 100% Italian silk.
Boy's Italian Suits
www.boysitaliansuits.com
157 Havemeyer street
Brooklyn, NY 11211
Toll free: 866-782-0108
An option for some smaller men is to choose a quality boy's/young man's suit; this retailer carries a very large stock and variety of Italian boy's suits, will ship overnight, and work with you until you find a suit to your liking. They prefer to do business over the phone (or in person at their Brooklyn location), but you can check out their web site for a few general ideas (they also carry boy's clothing and jackets), as well as information on choosing a suit.
Brown's
www.shortmanbrowns.com
Avenue Road Location
1975 Avenue Road
Toronto Ontario Canada
M5M 4A3
416-489-1975
Toll free:1-877-989-1975
Queen Street Location
545 Queen St. West
Toronto Ontario Canada
M5V 2B6
416-504-5937
Toll free:1-877-504-5937
info@shortmanbrowns.com
Brown's features proportioned clothing for shorter men, 5' 8" and under (specifically, they use three fitting categories: "extra short" for men 5'1" to 5'4", "short" for men 5'5" to 5'8", and "stout short" for heavy short men). They stock casual and dress clothing (plus small men's shoes), and offer a made to measure service that can provide a suit, sport coat, blazer, slacks, dress shirts, or overcoat in as little as seven working days, tailored specifically to your measurements.
For The Fit, Inc.
www.ForTheFit.com
800-970-FTFI (3834)
customerservice@ForTheFit.com
For The Fit, Inc. is an online menswear retailer specializing in clothes for fit/trim men who are 5'9" and under. They carry premium name brand business and casual clothes, accessories, and shoes. They carry short rise, short inseam pants proportioned for the shorter man and for smaller waists. They offer a shop by size feature, a "find my fit" consultation service, a fit and style guide, and a made-to-measure suiting service.
Giorgenti Men's Custom Pants and Shirts
clothesforsuccess.com
www.bestcustompants.com
www.bestcustomshirt.com
800-815-4784
Designer Janine Giorgenti creates high-quality custom-made suits, pants, and shirts made to order from the measurements you provide. All three Giorgenti sites listed above cater to men of all sizes, including shorter men (you can click on "shorter men" from the main menu). First-time customers submit a series of measurements (you can work with an online consultant if you are unsure about taking measurements), and your clothes are then made to fit and sent to you in about 3 weeks (it may take up to 6 weeks for a suit). There are a range of fabrics, prices, and styles to choose from.
Joe Sugars of St. Pauls
www.joesugars.com
119 West Broad Street
St. Pauls, NC 28384
910-865-5149, Fax: 910-865-1576
Toll free: 800-367-8427
Joe Sugar's specializes in clothing to fit big, tall, short, big and tall, big and short, extra short, or extra big men. They also have a "personal shopper" feature on their web page where you can request the type of items you are looking for and they will show you options and prices in your size.
Jimmy Au's For Men 5'8" & Under
www.jimmyaus.com
2168 Glendale Galleria
Glendale, CA 91210
818-243-9898
Jimmy Au's specializes in suits, tuxedos, dress shirts and casual shirts for men 5'8" and under; they also make a line of suits and tuxedos for men 5'5" and under called their "special" short line.
Lebow Bros. Clothing
www.lebowclothing.com
127 West Central Street
Natick, MA 01760
800-814-2229
Lebow's specializes in hard-to-fit men, and stocks short, extra short, and portly sizes in formal wear, outer wear, shirts, pants, and jeans. Their web site does not currently have an online catalog feature, but you can order by phone.
Lubin's of Westchester
www.lubinsmansworld.com
91 Knollwood Rd.
White Plains, NY 10607
914-428-5725
Lubin's has been in business over 50 years, and specializes in high-quality boys and young men's dress clothing of all sizes. They also have experience fitting trans men. Their web site does not have a searchable inventory, but they can be called with questions.
Muldoon's Men's Wear, Inc.
www.muldoons.com/short.html
1506 South Hastings Way
Eau Claire, WI 54701
715-832-6798
Toll free: 866-321-7865
jmuldoon@muldoons.com
Muldoon's caters to big and tall men as well as short men. They feature short rise pants and jeans, casual and dress slacks, suits, outerwear and dress shirts.
Napoleon's Tailor
www.napoleonstailor.com
Toll free: 800-233-9522
napoleonstailor@aol.com
Milwaukee location:
317 N. 76th St. Milwaukee, WI 53213
414-443-9960
Chicago location:
7254 W. Foster Ave.
Chicago, IL 60656
773-594-9800
Napoleon's Tailor carries a full line of casual and dress wear for men 5'8" or under, including casual and dress shirts, pants, suits, sweaters, and outerwear.
Short Men's Sizes from Jockey Club Ltd.
www.shortmenssizes.com
3940 S. Bristol St. #209
Santa Ana, CA 92704-7451
714-662-0449
For men 5'7" and under, they carry suits, sport coats, blazers, dress slacks, casual pants, jeans, shorts, dress shirts, hosiery, sport shirts, knit shirts, sweaters, casual jackets, neckwear, rainwear, footwear and more.
Short Sizes
www.shortsizesinc.com
6051 Mayfield Rd.
Cleveland, OH 44124
800-272-9000 (To order)
440-605-1000 (Customer service)
info@shortsizesinc.com
Short Sizes issues several color catalogs yearly offering suits, sport coats, slacks, shirts, shoes, sweaters and sportswear. They specialize in clothing for men under 5'8", and they feature shirts with short sleeve sizes, as well as extra short and portly short sizes.
Thaku's Big Tall Short Men's Wear
bigtallshort.com
4320 N. Scottsdale Road
Scottsdale, AZ 85251
480-947-7070
and
16055 N. Arrowhead Fountains Center Dr.
Peoria, AZ 86381
623-412-1333
Thaku's specializes in the hard-to-fit man, including short and heavy men. Their online store features a "short men's goods" section and short men's fitting chart.
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